Caribbean cruising in Colombia pt. 1

18 February 2012
Caribbean cruising in Colombia pt. 1

on top of a series of gorgeous switchbacks in colombia

on top of a series of gorgeous switchbacks in colombia


the road to cartagena

the road to cartagena


boiled egg surrounded by mashed potatoey goodness, awesome for a while, and then not so...

boiled egg surrounded by mashed potatoey goodness, awesome for a while, and then not so...

I spent two months on the Caribbean coast of Colombia, riding almost the entire coastline. I had a partner for my adventures for the most part in Colombia. A young dude named Carlos andres, with dreads, a resemblance to Jesus, a passion for life, and a similar flow as mine, we got on very well. We had met for the second time in Cartegena a surprisingly huge city, famous for its port, old charm and history, and yes the streets in certain parts have that elegance, like in the historic centre, but there is another side to Cartegena. Many people go there just to “hang out” with extremely beautiful prostitutes, which means the streets are full with them, identifiable only by the presence of heels.

cartagena

cartagena


bus in cartagena

bus in cartagena


street life in cartagena

street life in cartagena

Leaving the city we went north, finding rocks to climb, free meals to feed both body and soul, (Andres was really good at asking for food), beautiful beaches to camp on and great seas to swim in. It was indeed a lush paradise, with banana and coconut trees in abundance. Dissapointment came when we viosited popular hippy hang outs like tatanga, but we were happily surprised often by random kindness, beauty and chilled vibes. The average Colombian understand ths basics of the vagabond, im probably hungry and probably broke, so a helping hand will be recieved graciously.

a huge hat, pretty random

a huge hat, pretty random


sometimes we just have to turn around to see something magical

sometimes we just have to turn around to see something magical


beach camping

beach camping


those drifter coconuts are the hardest to open! but also the best, like where did you come from?

those drifter coconuts are the hardest to open! but also the best, like where did you come from?


bit of sunset fishing! dont worry we have no idea what we are doing!

bit of sunset fishing! dont worry we have no idea what we are doing!


just before a huge storm and i didnt have my tent up yet, i got soaked then invaded by 30 or more mosquitoes, had to incense smoke them out

just before a huge storm and i didnt have my tent up yet, i got soaked then invaded by 30 or more mosquitoes, had to incense smoke them out


free fish from the fishermen getting grilled using my spare spokes,

free fish from the fishermen getting grilled using my spare spokes,


getting ready for the day

getting ready for the day

A note on Colombian police, They suck! I was robbed, had a gun in my face, was harrassed for hours, thratened, kicked out of towns, and more. They are ignorant nazis for the most part, ex paramilitaries who like to say things like, what have you got for the head? And this is colombia! mmm ok, do1 will ya! I met other travellers who had good experiences, so i put it down to the way I look, that old stereotyping, someone has to get it, in Colombia, that someone looks like me. This is the only thing that sucked about Colombia.

loads of fruit all over the place

loads of fruit all over the place


strret scene on the coast, i like the donkey cart next to the motorbike, what a contrast

strret scene on the coast, i like the donkey cart next to the motorbike, what a contrast


Tatanga, the not so cool "cool" place, over a steep hill to get in and out, we were advised not to ride that hill alone or we would get robbed by machete, not cool

Tatanga, the not so cool "cool" place, over a steep hill to get in and out, we were advised not to ride that hill alone or we would get robbed by machete, not cool


now we are talking

now we are talking


kids doing dance practice by the river

kids doing dance practice by the river

We did do a few interviews and appeared in the regional newspaper and radio, which was awesome as people recognized us and knew who were we. Also it helped us secure place sto sleep, “look were in the newspaper”, at times its hard to find somewhere to sleep as people are wary of strangers. People would shout out at me, hey caleño ( a person from Cali ; Colombia) wheres your friend the English guy? A black dude from England is just unheard of, seriously!

here is the link, check it out

they call me the banana man, guess what we are eating for dinner

they call me the banana man, guess what we are eating for dinner


super cool kid, kicked his ass at naughts and crosses, so what if it was his 1st time

super cool kid, kicked his ass at naughts and crosses, so what if it was his 1st time


this guy was awesome, he had something called panpizza, it was like a pizza but more bready, sweet with pineapple, dude was a genius

this guy was awesome, he had something called panpizza, it was like a pizza but more bready, sweet with pineapple, dude was a genius


some random sea thingy, not what you wanna see when your about to take your morning dip

some random sea thingy, not what you wanna see when your about to take your morning dip


it really doesnt get any better than this, palomino, colombia, pure paradise

it really doesnt get any better than this, palomino, colombia, pure paradise


come on, hammock between coconut trees, bit of weird green stuff to put tent on, andparadise sand, amazing, crazy ants though

come on, hammock between coconut trees, bit of weird green stuff to put tent on, andparadise sand, amazing, crazy ants though


free fish, thank you fishermen of colombia!

free fish, thank you fishermen of colombia!

Heading way up north, things changed from lushness to dry desert, it was super hot, not many people or villages, and the people we did meet were living way different. There were not any fruit trees and life was just way harsher, even for us the change was evident, rolling up to the first store we had seen for ages, I told the woman I almost died getting here, pointed to my salt covered body and asked her to give me some water please, which she did. I had drunken bad water which increased my dehydration and it was not so nice in 40c heat. A few times we entered villages an dthe people were scared of us, which was not so cool, but when they found out our humble mission we we accepted and welcomed. It turnd out that people we getting murdered in the area, so everyone had enemies, and there was this whole wild wild west drama going on. It took me over a year to learn the word for enemy, which surprised me as its really similar to friend in spanish, amigo/enemigo. Further on we found amazing beaches and salty scenery, but in the end instead of making the whold loop around, we decided enough was enough and headed back down south to start our mission into the Andes.

ninja!

ninja!


where did carlos go, i mean his bike is here..ohh, wtf, hey..is it too hot for you mate

where did carlos go, i mean his bike is here..ohh, wtf, hey..is it too hot for you mate


here the freezing fresh water from the mountains meets the sea, amazing

here the freezing fresh water from the mountains meets the sea, amazing


sierra nevada, biggest mountain range this close to the ocean in the world

sierra nevada, biggest mountain range this close to the ocean in the world


this is the makeshift shelter known as a kambucha that 4 of us survived one hell of a storm, still managed to get some lemongrass tea and caramelized coconut done thought thanks to the good old stove, o yeah, thats how i roll!

this is the makeshift shelter known as a kambucha that 4 of us survived one hell of a storm, still managed to get some lemongrass tea and caramelized coconut done thought thanks to the good old stove, o yeah, thats how i roll!


chillin in the city

chillin in the city


brazil and i think french, these guys had like 18 years on the bike, around the world

brazil and i think french, these guys had like 18 years on the bike, around the world


beautiful place!

beautiful place!


super salty

super salty


nice beach after a few tough days in the middle of knowhere

nice beach after a few tough days in the middle of knowhere


for miles and miles

for miles and miles


i could make pasta with all the salt i got!

i could make pasta with all the salt i got!


hitting the pavement after a crazy bad road, epicness

hitting the pavement after a crazy bad road, epicness


another loko en bici, its always good, this guy was casually telling me year i reckon another 5 years to brazil, even i was like you what..yeah you know, one year here, 6 months here, bl bla..funny, now i know how i must sound

another loko en bici, its always good, this guy was casually telling me year i reckon another 5 years to brazil, even i was like you what..yeah you know, one year here, 6 months here, bl bla..funny, now i know how i must sound


watermelon never tasted so good!

watermelon never tasted so good!


another dude from chile, he has a sign saying he was doing a gunuess world record, not sure if he ws or not, he gave us some gatorade and was like finish it no problems i will get some more, legend!

another dude from chile, he has a sign saying he was doing a gunuess world record, not sure if he ws or not, he gave us some gatorade and was like finish it no problems i will get some more, legend!


erm can i have some free watermelon please?

erm can i have some free watermelon please?


3, 2, 1 jump

3, 2, 1 jump


delicious yucca cake thingy

delicious yucca cake thingy


erm can i have some free watermelon please?

erm can i have some free watermelon please?


fish bread! with guava filling, nice job, look at the detail!

fish bread! with guava filling, nice job, look at the detail!


baking bread in the ground, doesnt get any more epic than this! bread with veggies and seasoned, and salty which they just dont do in Colombia, took a good few hours with burried with the hot rocks, but was so worth it!

baking bread in the ground, doesnt get any more epic than this! bread with veggies and seasoned, and salty which they just dont do in Colombia, took a good few hours with burried with the hot rocks, but was so worth it!

And so it was that a long chain of blessings carried me right through up into the Andes.

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4 User Comments : Share your thoughts

  1. Camping on the beach looks beautiful! … I know how you like to get creative and resourceful in terms of cooking (for example as mentioned above, baking bread in the ground and brewing teas from things you stumble upon) so perhaps a blog/section on your recipes and cooking techniques would be welcomed!

  2. Grilling fish on spare spokes! That is the most brilliant MacIver-esque idea ever. Gotta to jot that one down.

    R u still sans campstove or have u found a replacement?

    I second natalie’s idea. We need a culinary section!

    • Oh yes, I have used them to steam and reheat tamales as well, I have to admit, I did feel like a genius at the times.

      I sold my laptop, and in the deal I got a stove, its a multi fuel, pretty much the same as the old one apart from now I can simmer… it was destiny!

      Recipes from the road coming up next, I have a whole bunch

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